Yea Baby,
Today I didn't have much time for shooting, as usual, so I decided to do a little tuning. On Monday I tried the same thing but couldn't get good results. Now I know why. I was trying to setup my nocking point by shooting bare and fletched shafts and comparing their points of impact. If the Bare is higher than the fletched then you have to raise your Nocking point and if they lower then you lower it. Simple right? I thought I'd make it more simple and just adjust the rest. I got it back wards though and lowered the rest which has the same effect as raising the nocking point since the rest is the pivot point. That led me to give up on Monday. Today, with some inspiration from a post on the Archery Talk discussion board I came up with the easy way to make sure my arrow is resting at the right height against the plunger.
A simple way to setup the adjustable rest height on your Olympic recurve. Take some paint and put it on the tip of the plunger. Nock an arrow and draw it back and forth a few times over the painted plunger tip. Check to see where the paint is worn away and if it's in the centre of the plunger your rest is in the right place. I did this using the brass tipped plunger pin that came with my Shibuya DX. It has a nice mark in the centre so its easy to see if you are in the right place.
After I did this today my arrows were flying nice again. I think I must have bumped it or something and bent the rest wire when I was trimming it to size the other day.

I tried something else that I've been wondering about. I played about with rotating the aperture on my sight to get an elliptical aperture rather than a round one. This way I get the precise aiming of a small aperture but the brightness of big open loop. I think another advantage is the oblong aperture makes it easy to see if you are canting the bow. Seems to work all right at 18m.
Wish I had done all this last week before the competition.